Khardung La Travel Guide: Height, Route, Permits & Tips

Why Khardung La?

Every road trip through Ladakh eventually funnels its travellers toward the same 40-kilometre stretch of tarmac north of Leh — a switchbacking climb through bare brown hills that ends, improbably, above the clouds. Khardung La is the pass that separates the Indus Valley from Nubra Valley, and for most visitors to Ladakh it's the single highest point they will ever stand on in a moving vehicle.

The pass sits at 5,359 metres (17,582 ft) according to modern GPS surveys — a figure worth dwelling on, because for decades the signboard at the top proudly (and incorrectly) declared Khardung La the "world's highest motorable pass" at 5,602 m. That claim has since been debunked. Ladakh itself has higher roads — Umling La near Chumathang tops 5,800 m, and passes like Mardung La and Semo La also clear Khardung La's true elevation. None of that diminishes what Khardung La actually is: a BRO-built, genuinely high, genuinely spectacular road that most travellers will only ever cross once in their life, and never forget.

It is also, practically speaking, the only way in and out of Nubra Valley by road from Leh — which means almost everyone visiting Ladakh's sand dunes, Bactrian camels, and Diskit's giant Maitreya Buddha will cross this pass at least twice. Treat it with respect, plan around the altitude, and it becomes one of the most rewarding hours of any Ladakh itinerary.

Best Time to Visit Khardung La

The pass is open to civilian traffic roughly from late May or early June through October, though the exact opening date shifts every year depending on how much snow the BRO's road-clearing teams have to cut through. Outside this window, heavy winter snowfall makes the road impassable and it's closed for months at a stretch — Khardung La is not a winter destination for tourists.

Our pick: Early-to-mid September. The road is fully open and reliably maintained, the light is extraordinary, and you'll share the summit signboard with far fewer people than you would in the peak-July crush.

How to Reach Khardung La

Khardung La begins its climb right from the edge of Leh town, which makes it one of the most accessible 5,000-metre-plus roads on earth. There's no trekking, no multi-day approach — just a well-marked road and a couple of hours of driving.

• Distance from Leh: Approximately 40 km one-way from Leh Market
• Duration: 1.5–2 hours each way, depending on traffic at the checkposts and road condition
• Route: Leh → South Pullu checkpost → Khardung village → Khardung La summit → North Pullu checkpost → descent into Nubra Valley
• Starting altitude: Leh sits at 3,524 m — you'll gain nearly 1,850 vertical metres on this drive alone

Altitude Sickness & Precautions

At 5,359 m, the atmospheric pressure is roughly half of what it is at sea level — meaning every breath you take delivers about half the oxygen your body is used to. Even travellers who've acclimatised comfortably in Leh can feel the effects sharply the moment they step out of the vehicle at the top: light-headedness, breathlessness after a few steps, a pounding heart rate at rest.

• Limit your time at the top: 15–20 minutes is the widely recommended ceiling. Take your photos, breathe, and head back down — this isn't a place to linger.
• Don't exert yourself: No running to the signboard, no jumping for photos, no climbing the nearby slopes. Move slowly and deliberately.
• Watch for warning signs: Severe headache, vomiting, confusion, or difficulty breathing at rest are signs to descend immediately — these can be early symptoms of High Altitude Pulmonary or Cerebral Edema (HAPE/HACE), which are medical emergencies.
• Oxygen is available: The army canteen at the top keeps oxygen cylinders on hand for travellers in visible distress — don't hesitate to ask.
• Stay hydrated, skip the alcohol: Drink water throughout the drive up. Avoid alcohol the night before and any heavy meal right before the climb.

What's at the Top

Despite sitting above 5,300 m, the summit of Khardung La is surprisingly well set up for the steady stream of travellers who pass through it every day in season. It's a small but memorable stop, not a place you'd want to spend hours — but there's enough here to make the obligatory selfie feel earned.

• The signboard: A weathered, much-photographed BRO signboard marking the pass — expect a short queue for photos in peak season.
• Army canteen / tea stall: Run by the Indian Army, serving hot tea, Maggi noodles, and basic snacks. On a freezing, oxygen-starved morning, a cup of sweet chai here tastes better than it has any right to.
• The "highest ATM" claim: A State Bank of India branch near the pass has long marketed itself as one of the world's highest ATMs — a novelty stop for many travellers, though don't rely on it actually dispensing cash.
• Prayer flags: Strings of Buddhist prayer flags snap in the wind across the ridgeline, exactly as vivid in person as they look in every Ladakh photograph you've ever seen.
• The view: On a clear day you can see across the folded brown ridges of the Ladakh Range toward the snow-streaked Karakoram peaks in the distance — one of the most expansive high-altitude panoramas accessible by road anywhere in India.

Motorcycle vs Car — Which Should You Choose?

Khardung La is crossed by everything from Royal Enfields to shared Innova taxis, and both approaches have real trade-offs at this altitude.

South Pullu & North Pullu Checkposts

Two checkposts bookend the Khardung La crossing, and every vehicle headed toward Nubra Valley must stop at both. Neither is a hassle if your paperwork is in order — plan for a few minutes at each.

Carry physical printouts of your Inner Line Permit — 2–3 copies per traveller is a safe rule of thumb. Digital copies on a phone are sometimes accepted but not guaranteed, especially if signal is patchy (it usually is). ILPs are obtained in Leh, either online in advance or in person at the DC Office, and cover Nubra Valley, Pangong, and other restricted border areas in one go.

Onward to Nubra Valley

Descend the far side of Khardung La and the landscape changes almost as dramatically as the altitude does. Within an hour or two you drop into Nubra Valley, a broad, comparatively green valley where the Shyok and Nubra rivers meet, sand dunes rise between snow-streaked 6,000-metre peaks, and Bactrian camels — descendants of Silk Road caravans — still plod across the dunes at Hunder.

Diskit, Nubra's main town, is home to a towering hilltop Maitreya Buddha statue and an ancient monastery perched above the valley floor. Most travellers who cross Khardung La spend a night or two in Nubra before returning the same way — making this pass a crossing you'll almost certainly make twice.

Road Conditions & BRO Maintenance

The road over Khardung La is built and maintained by the Border Roads Organisation (BRO), the Indian government agency responsible for road infrastructure in the country's remote border regions. Motto boards along the route — cheerful, slightly absurdist warnings about speed and safety — are a small running joke among Ladakh road-trippers and worth reading as you pass.

Conditions vary considerably by season and by year. Large stretches are smoothly tarmacked, but expect intermittent gravel, water crossings from meltwater streams, and occasional construction detours, especially just after the pass reopens in early summer. BRO crews work continuously through the season to keep the road passable, but landslides and minor washouts are a normal part of high-altitude Himalayan driving here — build slack into your schedule rather than expecting a fixed arrival time.

Where to Stay

There is no accommodation at Khardung La itself — nor would you want any, given the altitude. This is a crossing, not a destination to overnight at. Your two realistic bases are Leh, before and after the drive, or Nubra Valley, if you're continuing on rather than returning the same day.

Budget Breakdown for a Khardung La Crossing

Costs here are modest compared to the rest of a Ladakh trip — the pass itself doesn't charge an entry fee, and your main expenses are the vehicle, fuel, and permit.

Essential Tips: Do's & Don'ts

Khardung La rewards preparation far more than bravado. Go slow on the way up, breathe, keep your stop at the summit brief, and the pass becomes exactly what it should be — a genuinely thrilling, genuinely beautiful high point of any Ladakh trip, not an ordeal to survive.

Frequently Asked Questions